Essex has been known for its oysters since Roman times - Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Since the Romans first dined on oysters off the coast of Mersea, Essex has been known for its seafood. In many of our coastal towns and villages there are people keeping that tradition alive today. By eating this delicacy, not only are we supporting local producers, but seafood and shellfish are packed with important nutrients, which are vital in keeping our bodies and brains at their best.
Maldon Oysters was established in 1960 - Credit: Maldon Oysters
Maldon Oysters was established in 1960, and it’s owned by Richard and Caroline Emans. The company manages an area of 3,500 acres of the Blackwater River.
General manager Christopher Hadfield has been managing the company, which harvests oysters, mussels and clams, for just over seven years. ‘I emigrated from Knysna in South Africa’s Western Cape. I grew up there. It’s a small town, which is famous for its oysters. I moved to the UK and had the good fortune to speak to Richard the owner fairly soon upon arriving; I haven’t looked back since.
‘There are two sides to the business. One half is the agricultural side, which is done predominantly from our oyster beds just off Goldhanger Creek. We use the word “farming” in inverted commas as there’s not a lot you can do to farm an oyster – apart from corralling them into a certain area. We grow them in bags on top of steel racks. It keeps them off the riverbed and away from their natural predators like winkles and starfish. At any point in the year, we have a few million oysters growing there. Rather like gardening, you have to tend to them every day.
‘The second half of the business is run from Cock Clarks where we have our depuration works. It’s probably the most advanced of its type – certainly in the UK if not in Europe. The purpose is to keep the harvested oysters in an artificial sea water environment for 42 hours so that they are safe to eat.
‘The oysters are heavy drinkers! They will filter up to 10 litres of water an hour. By them filtering the water that we are filtering through a bank of UV lights, it will ensure that they purge themselves.’
Owner Richard Emans says that harvesting of oysters has been done in the same way for hundreds of years. ‘There are fellas here in the Blackwater who have been doing it for many generations.’
The company packs between 12,000 to 15,000 oysters every weekday, and that’s all done by hand. It’s a physical job, but Richard says it has its perks. ‘Winter and summer, it’s lovely to be outside, lifting, carrying and turning the oysters.’
But what is the best way to eat them? ‘There’s nothing quite like an oyster in the half shell, freshly shucked,’ Richard says. ‘It’s a gastronomic first sniff of the sea – it takes me back to my childhood and being able to smell the sea even before I could see the blue waves.
‘Have the first one or two naked to taste the merroir – like wine’s terroir. The Maldon oyster has a slightly avocado aftertaste from the blackish marsh environment it comes from; give it a chew to release more flavour. Then, you can experiment with lemon juice, tabasco sauce or red wine vinegar and shallots. If you’re feeling adventurous, try horseradish or salsa.’
It's not just oysters in Essex - Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Marrfish specialise in getting seafood from the water to your plate. I caught up with operations director Ben English, who told me that prior to the pandemic, their customer base was purely high-end restaurants and gastro pubs in and around London and throughout East Anglia.
‘The Marr family are five generations of fishermen and vessel owners. We take what they catch and sell it to people who appreciate the quality of their fish. We do all the preparation so it’s ready for chefs to throw in the pan.’
It regularly delivers to top chefs including Jason Atherton and Angela Hartnett, plus high-end restaurants including the Dorchester, Royal Lancaster and The Landmark. In Essex, they send the freshest of fish to the Milsom Group, the Lion Inn in Boreham and also to both the Magic Mushroom in Billericay and Alec’s Restaurant in Navestock Side.
When the first lockdown was imposed, 95% of its business disappeared. In that same week, Ben rallied his staff to create a home-delivery system, sending fresh fish around the UK by courier. Now, he says the company has evolved again.
‘The market is quite saturated with meat and veg box deliveries, and we have found that demand has tailed off,’ Ben says. Even though that’s the case, and his trade customers are now back in full swing, he’s determined to look after his retail customers. ‘We see it as an integral part of our business, and it's something we enjoy doing. At the height of the pandemic, we felt we were putting something back into the community when the supermarkets didn’t have the food for the shoppers. We have found that some people have turned back to convenience shopping, but the fish box deliveries are something we still believe in.’
They offer a variety of boxed fish in the freshest condition already filleted and portioned; there’s also a regular shopper discount. ‘For the summer we are also offering a special barbecue fish box, which is going particularly well,’ Ben tells me. ‘It has king prawns, tuna steaks and fish that you can just throw onto your barbie and enjoy. We deliver in an insulated box with ice inside to keep it to temperature, and we can deliver all over the UK, before 10am the very next day.’
Dale and Louise Belbin at their purification centre - Credit: Belbin Native Seafoods
Belbin Native Seafoods is a rapidly growing seafood supplier owned and run by Dale and Louise Belbin. Supplying a wide range of locally sourced seafood, the couple specialise in Mersea Oysters.
Dale is a first-generation oysterman, which has given him a unique perspective on this traditional craft. They have developed their business with a refreshing, down-to-earth approach that prioritises sustainability and quality.
‘I left school and went fishing at 16 for three years and then I started oystering,’ Dale says. ‘Even at school I was picking oysters for other people. In 2019, we started the process of getting all the equipment we needed to harvest and look after oysters to sell from our base in Ardleigh. In March 2020, we got the paperwork through to start purifying our own oysters.
‘The oyster beds are part of the Mersea Creek. The water runs off the land nearby and into the Creek, which gives the oyster its unique Essex flavour. A lot of the time I’m out picking up oysters, then we wash and grade them – it’s all done by hand.
‘A typical day, as it’s just me oystering, can be between 1,000 and 2,000 oysters harvested. Gigas or Rock oysters you can harvest all year round. The Natives can only be harvested in months with an R in them; so, September until the end of April. It’s because they were over-fished years ago. There is quite a substantial taste difference between the two. But to describe it is difficult – so it’s best to try them for yourself!’
Have your first oyster naked to taste its 'merroir' - Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Belbin Native Seafoods send their oysters around the UK using special wax cardboard boxes. ‘We use cardboard as it’s environmentally friendly. We also use special ice packs to keep them at the right temperature for up to three days, if needed. Normally once ordered they are delivered the next day.’
Why does Dale think Essex oysters are different to any others? ‘It’s because we have a completely different landscape. We have sandbanks, which are drying out and a very shallow estuary. That creates a marshland, and it’s that marshland that gives our oysters their unique flavour.’
How can we make the most of this flavour? ‘Most people just shuck them and eat them fresh and raw. You can add some shallot vinegar or you can grill them with cheese and bacon. There are plenty of recipes online. Personally, I like them grilled. You can also put them into pies and stews.’
Orders need to be placed by 6pm the day before and will be sent the next day for a delivery by 4pm the following day.